We were tired of waiting for the right time.
Perry and I had been all over the UK in the past year, but had not visited the south coast. This was partially due to various trips to other parts of the country and partially due to the well-intended objections of friends. These protestations represent the essence of the British approach to travel.
Me (stated in any month except June/July/August): ‘I think we’ll take a trip to the southeast coast this weekend.’
British Friends: ‘Are you mad? The weather is rubbish this time of year.’
Me: (stated in June/July/August): ‘I think we’ll take a trip to the south coast this weekend.’
British Friends: ‘Are you mad? You’ll sit in traffic for hours and you won't get a hotel this time of year.’
We decided, during a particularly temperate October, to go for it. After a bit of deliberation, we selected three coastal cities for overnight stays, traveling via A roads for a slow, relaxing pace.
Dover was our first evening’s destination but decided to stop in Canterbury. Canterbury is located in Kent, known as The Garden of England. Despite it being autumn, the countryside was still lush and fragrant. Our only regret is not leaving a bit earlier to see Whitstable, a picturesque village just north of Canterbury, known for its mariner history and oysters.
Relatively close to the sea, Canterbury has been occupied since pre-historic times. It has been a stronghold and capital to the Celts, Jutes, Romans and Normans but its main claim to fame is Canterbury Cathedral, home of the Archbishop of Canterbury, leader of the Church of England and symbolic head of the Anglican faith.
Lunch was in order before such historic inspiration. We stopped in at Café Mauresque, billed as an Andalucian (southern Spain) and North African oasis. It feels like an escape to Morocco, without the airfare. With dim lighting, tables in little nooks and benches filled with stuffed pillows, it’s beautiful, atmospheric and the perfect setting to eat a variety of lovely Moorish tapas.
Café Mauresque (courtesy of TripAdvisor)
We worked off lunch during the walk to Canterbury Cathedral. One of the oldest Christian churches in England, it is also the site of the infamous murder of Thomas Becket (he was later canonized a Saint) in 1170, creating a pilgrimage site that inspired the Canterbury Tales, written by Geoffrey Chaucer in the 14th century.
Canterbury Cathedral
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its famed past is reason enough to visit, but somehow it feels curiously similar to other cathedrals throughout England. Visits to Winchester, York, Durham or even Peterborough will also give you an equally impressive and historically significant experience, however, if you are seeking a pilgrimage, be it religious (Thomas Becket, origins of Anglicanism) or literary (Canterbury Tales), Canterbury Cathedral fits the bill.
After the Cathedral tour, we briefly strolled around the city centre shops.
Canterbury historic city centre
Canterbury is a lovely city and worth exploring, but with the shorter days of October, Dover and its white cliffs were calling.
Dover is a thirty-minute drive from Canterbury. A major ferry port, it is even more ancient and historical than Canterbury, with evidence of occupation as early as the Stone Age. It is famed for the White Cliffs of Dover, dramatic, chalky white cliffs that can be seen across the channel from Calais, France.
Enthusiasm mounted as we approached the water. I was raised in a land-locked environment, so there is something about the energy of the sea that makes me giddy.
As we followed the signs for the White Cliffs, all of a sudden, Dover Castle rose up in front of us and it was an impressive sight. There are many castles in England but this structure is ‘mahoosive’ (as my friend Joanne likes to say) and demanded we pull over to fully appreciate it.
Dover Castle
Dover Castle is a medieval fortress founded in the 12th century and the largest in England. As Dover is the closest point to the European continent (26 miles to Calais), it has tremendous defensive significance. It has played lead roles in many historical uprisings and military campaigns, most recently WWII where it housed a series of underground tunnels that held a major communications center and hospital. There are miles of tunnels, with many yet unexplored. A full report on the tunnels is expected sometime between 2020 and 2025!
I had briefly researched Dover Castle, but with the focus on the White Cliffs, it fell into the ‘nice to do’ bucket. That changed after seeing it ‘in the flesh.' We pulled up to the gate only to discover that it was closing in 30 minutes. Disappointed, we continued to the White Cliffs, but vowed to come back some day.
Back on the road, the remaining few miles along a winding country lane offered pastoral views alternating with brief glimpses into the sea and port, a bit like a game of peek-a-boo. With all this teasing, I wanted to sprint out of the car to the water upon arrival, but controlled the urge and we walked the path. It was a bit muddy that day, so if you go, remember not to wear crispy white trainers.
Path along the White Cliffs
Along the path, you are rewarded with brilliant views of both the cliffs and the port. The port was quite busy and fascinating to watch. From our vantage point up on the hill, the trucks and cars lined up like a city of ants, waiting to gain entrance to several enormous ferries. Even though these trucks were probably carrying unromantic fare such as vegetables or electronics, it was actually a fairly romantic scene as the sun was waning and sky filling with purples, pinks and oranges.
Port of Dover
White Cliffs of Dover with Port of Dover in the background
As we walked, we watched our steps, keeping a good distance from the edge of the cliffs. It was a bit windy, but the weather was mild, and once we arrived at the lighthouse, we turned to the water and stood in wonder.
As close to the edge as you want to get
It was a clear day and easy to see France across the Strait of Dover. There was something exhilarating about gazing across that water. It felt like a Jane Austen novel, hair whipping in the wind, I pondered the many that had stood in this spot before me, admiring the views, pining over lost lovers or fearing impending invaders.
Perry's hair does not whip in the wind
It was dark by the time we returned to the car and headed into town. We stayed at a fairly unremarkable Premier Inn, a busy hotel for those catching the early morning ferry to Calais. While our meal in the hotel restaurant was lackluster (dry hamburgers and overcooked gammon), the stay in the hotel was pleasant. All that fresh sea air made for an early night and easy sleep.
In the morning, we had to make a tough decision. Spend a day at Dover Castle or continue to Brighton as planned. If we toured Dover Castle, we would have to race to Brighton via the M20 and M23 vs. taking the slow and meandering route close to the sea. As this was intended to be a south coast tour, we sadly agreed to forego the Castle this time. If you get the chance, don’t make that mistake!
The decision was not regretted.. at the time. Yes, the drive was scenic, but it took much longer than planned- about 4 hours instead of the 2.5 we had budgeted. I tried to take on a Sunday driver all-the-time-in-the-world attitude, but the constant truck traffic (admired at the port, but here, not so much) and limited views of the water resulted in a tedious, not carefree road trip.
Brighton was a welcome scene and we longed to ditch our car but even this took time. Parking in Brighton is notoriously difficult and we circled our hotel endlessly before finding a spot; a fitting end to the days travel.
Near Legends Hotel, with Brighton Wheel in the backgrond
While Brighton is on the water, its fame is not as a port. It rose to prominence as a fashionable resort town in the 18th and early 19th centuries as a place to ‘take the waters.’ Bathing in and drinking seawater was a purported cure for various maladies in those days. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it became a popular seaside getaway for Londoners and many of the famous landmarks (Brighton Pier, Royal Pavilion) were built during this time.
Brighton Beach with Brighton Pier in background
The Royal Pavilion was constructed for the Prince Regent (later, Prince George IV) and features a unique Indo-Gothic architecture, which originated in British India. It does not look like anything you have ever seen, unless you are well-traveled throughout India. The Brighton Pier opened in 1899 and houses the usual seaside entertainment- arcades, food stands and an amusement park.
The Royal Pavilion (presently undergoing a facelift)
Brighton Pier
Today, Brighton is considered a bohemian city, best known for its lively GLBT scene. The beach is still there obviously, but this is not the express purpose of Brighton. In keeping with the vibe, we stayed at the famous Legends hotel, a GLBT institution.
After dropping off our bags, we hiked Brighton’s pebbled beach. The texture was a surprise and not particularly to my liking. The views of the water are spectacular, but having to walk in sturdy shoes didn’t feel very seaside to me. I like to dig my feet into the sand and water.
Pebbled Brighton Beach
Off the water, we walked The Lanes, a shopping district named for the narrow streets originally built in the 18th century. The small shops are mostly quaint with a few edgy and trendy. We grabbed sandwiches at a corner shop before we made our way to Perry’s only ‘must see’ in Brighton: Choccywoccydoodah. We ordered up hot chocolate so luxurious, I couldn’t believe we were in Britain. Just be prepared for a wait, as it is not a well-kept secret. It’s worth it. Trust.
We walked off our decadence for the rest of the day, meandering, shopping and exploring.
Homes near 'The Lanes' shopping district
After a late night bite at Street Thai, we turned in, missing the Drag Queen show.
Our third and final destination was Portsmouth. This journey proved to be even less scenic than the previous days as we cruised west across the A27 in an hour.
As a self-proclaimed ‘history person,' I was excited to see Portsmouth. An island city, it has been a naval port for centuries and holds the world’s oldest dry dock, the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. It houses the world famous warships HMS Victory, HMS Warrior and the Tudor-era Mary Rose.
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and HMS Warrior (1860 warship)
The Gunwharf Quays (pronounced ‘keys’) area is tourist destination, but I don’t say that in a negative way. It is well laid out and not only contains the Dockyard, but a retail shopping outlet and the landmark Spinnaker Tower. And an un-Britishlike selection of ample parking.*
Spinnaker Tower was our first stop. Opened in 2005, it was built to honor Portsmouth’s maritime heritage, modeled after a sail. On a clear day, there are stunning views of the City of Portsmouth, the English Channel and Isle of Wight. It was slightly cloudy the day we visited, but fun to see the ferries come and go from the Isle of Wight.
Spinnaker Tower
View from Spinnaker Tower with Isle of Wight in the distance
After the tower, we headed to the dockyard and Victory. As we waited in the queue, I was able to read up on her history. The flagship of Admiral Horatio Nelson, Victory is most famous for the Battle of Trafalgar, where Nelson was shot and killed. Launched in 1765, Victory is the oldest warship in the world still in commission. As I considered this, I looked up at her black and yellow paint job and display of spiffy flags. It was easy to get caught up in the long and storied history of the British Navy and I felt a bit of pride for my newly adopted country.
HMS Victory (in dry dock)
The tour of Victory provided great insights into British patriotism. There is a plaque that captures Nelson’s famed proclamation at the Battle of Trafalgar ‘England expects that every man will do his duty.' I was not aware of the phrase prior to my arrival and while I’m not a fan of propaganda, it struck me. The poignancy of it being Nelson’s last order has embedded it in the English psyche ever since. ‘England expects…’ was used prominently during WWII as well as being the slogan of the English national football team.
HMS Victory
We were kept fairly busy with displays of everyday life on a ship, reading accounts of historical battles and climbing up and down the decks. But of all the sights, I lingered at the spot where Nelson died in 1805. He is one of Britain’s most heroic figures and has several monuments, including one atop a column in Trafalgar Square and an ornate tomb in St. Paul’s Cathedral. In keeping with the British sense of humor, this war hero had an unceremonious ending being transported home in a barrel of brandy.
Inside Victory
While I enjoyed Victory, the Mary Rose was absolutely fascinating. Commissioned during the reign of King Henry VIII, the Mary Rose was famous in her day and featured a well-trained crew, including skilled longbow archers. It sank during a battle against the French near the Isle of Wight in 1545. It was rediscovered in 1971 and raised in 1982, where it spent the next 30 years being restored and its artifacts catalogued.
A beautiful museum has been specially built to house the fragile remains of the ship. The artifacts are a veritable treasure chest of Tudor era life, including musical instruments that were previously thought to have disappeared from the earth forever. It's spacious and doesn't feel crowded, but it is slightly darkened to protect the displays, which creates an atmosphere of mystery, similar to the British Library. It also means that they do not photograph well and I have no good images to share.
The exhibits are very well done, drawing you in with a compelling story and materials presented in a thoughtful, sometimes macabre way. I was a bit taken aback to see skeletons of the crew on display, but they did so so you could see how much damage their bodies endured as longbow archers. Finger and shoulder bones were worn away so you could see exactly what being a bowman did to the body.
Mary Rose Museum, Portsmouth, UK
Gunwharf Quays provided our dinner venue and a modern contrast to the days history. We checked out the shops before setting our GPS to home in Peterborough.
On the way home, I thought about these very different cities. While they are all on the south coast, each had a unique charm all their own. Dover provides a very outdoorsy experience with majestic views and plenty of sea air. Brighton has a distinctly eclectic and resort-like feel with the sea serving only as a backdrop. Portsmouth is the intersection of history and present day with its maritime museums and modern shopping.
Next time you are in Britain, don't be mad, get out and see the South Coast.
*The parking at Gunwharf Quays is the best I've ever encountered, even in the US. Each parking stall has a sensor above it showing red or green, so that you can see empty parking spaces from the main aisle.