A Day in the Peak District

Sometimes, all you have is a day.

The Peak District may seem like too much for one day, but it is possible. You just need to make one magic moment to turn a day trip into a life-long memory.

The Peak District is a famous area in the north of England. Mainly in Derbyshire, it includes the southern part of the Pennines (range of mountains and hills), moorlands (grassy, uncultivated hills) and a national park.

As expats, we had been meaning to cruise this region for quite sometime, but as often is the case, for different reasons. While he does enjoy rugged beauty, Perry really wanted to swing through Sheffield, an industrial city on the eastern edge of the Peak District. He is drawn to the gritty side of life.

I, on the other hand, wanted Jane Austen’s Peak District, with sweeping views and sweet-but-not-saccharin villages. I am drawn to the romantic side of life. We decided we could do both and selected a Saturday in June.

From our home in Peterborough, we drove up the A1 and A57 towards Sheffield. The route is pleasant but under-scenic, unless you have a thing for motorway service areas.

Once in Sheffield, we drove around trying to get a feel for the city. Despite its reputation, we found very little of the grittiness associated with the former steel producer. It actually felt quite modern with a large university and cheerful student housing.

The city centre was bustling with the usual selection of High Street shops. Geographically, it sits on the edge of the Pennines and the Peak District. As such, the city is built into hillsides, which gives it a rugged and athletic appeal. Speaking of athletics, we made sure to swing by famed Hillsborough, the football ground for Sheffield Wednesday.

Hillsborough Stadium, Home of Sheffield Wednesday

Usually, when we explore a new city, we like to spend time in the city centre but as the rain began to pour, our plans changed. We carried on to our official Peak District starting point: Holmfirth.

Holmfirth is technically in the West Riding of Yorkshire but it also sits on the very northwest edge of the Peak District. It is famous for the world’s long-running sitcom, Last of the Summer Wine, which was filmed in Holmfirth.

We arrived in Holmfirth around noon and parked in the Co-operative car park for a ridiculously cheap 80 pence. Walking across the bridge to the town centre, we were feeling a bit peckish, so hurried over to Sid’s Café (also of Last of the Summer Wine fame). We were not the only ones with this idea as it was very crowded.

Plan B didn’t end up feeling ‘second choice’ as we headed across the street to the Old Bridge Hotel. The Old Bridge has been lovingly restored such that it offers modern shine and old-world charm in equal measure. Despite the fact that it was June, the weather was damp and cold, but the fire and friendly greeting from our waitress served as a warm contrast.

We had a very hearty meal with huge, American-sized portions that would be the perfect fill up before an afternoon of hiking. I had the Yorkshire Pudding hot beef sandwich and a pot of steaming English Breakfast tea. The table next to us tackled the famously huge ‘Pie on a Plate’, the size of which I have not seen anywhere in my travels across the UK!

After lunch, we were ready to tackle the Peak District. We headed out of town on the A6024 with bunting along the road bidding us farewell. The décor was in honor of the Tour de France, which was set to roll through the Peak District the following weekend. Yes, part of the Tour de France happens outside of France. Discuss amongst yourselves!

We didn’t drive very far before the views started to pay off. The fog lightly touched down on the hills and moors, creating an atmosphere perfect for evoking the brooding vibe of Austen and Bronte.

The winding road was rewarding with sheep dotted hills and lonely vistas. Cyclists were out in full force and we slowed accordingly, but with these views, why hurry?

We took a right on the A628 past the Woodside and Torside Reservoirs towards Glossop, which provided patchwork quilt-type views dotted with sheep.

Glossop is a historic market town, but as we had a lot of ground to cover, we did not stop. Instead, we headed west on the A57, otherwise known as Snake Pass, which connects Glossop and Ladybower Reservoir.

Snake Pass provided an exceptional driving experience and deserves its reputation as one of the best driving roads in the UK. The superb views and exceptional scenery were the best of the day.

Along the route, we came upon a lay-by/car-park for Blackden Brook, which has a great walking path that is relatively short (five miles), yet very challenging. If you enjoy such challenges, the scenic payoff is worthwhile with the Ashop River, lovely stone walls and three impressive waterfalls to reward your effort.

The goats and sheep in the fields were curious but gentle, and served as entertainment as we walked among them. We did not complete the entire five miles due to wet conditions but did enough to make a little travel magic- we found ourselves in the middle of unspoiled scenery- no people, cars or buildings. We also worked off our lunch.

I think that's a goat, but I could be wrong!

Invigorated, we continued east towards Ladybower Reservoir, south on A6013 through Bamford, and then east on A6187 towards Hathersage. The landscape did not disappoint- undulating hills and Derbyshire moors for mile after mile.

Hathersage is the real-life setting for Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre and the perfect stop for coffee and a sweet treat at Coleman’s Deli. Beyond coffee, if you are in need of lunch, this is the place. Everything looked delicious and they were quite busy, which is always a good sign. We walked around a bit and admired the shops.

About two miles outside the village is Stanage Edge, which is popular with both hikers and rock climbers. It’s become even more famous because of a scene in Pride & Prejudice where Keira Knightley's Lizzie Bennet stands on a windswept cliff looking mournful. Here's a picture, courtesy of Wikipedia.

After the physical exertion from Blackden Brook and lots of miles yet to cover, we didn’t walk Stanage Edge, which I now regret. Make the time for this stop, as I’m certain it will deliver.

As we headed south to Chatsworth from Hathersage, the landscape gradually softened from rugged hills to the bucolic fields for which England is known and loved.

Traveling on the B6001 and A623 past Baslow, we encountered a couple of tricky turns, but it’s such a tourist draw that we simply followed the cars to Chatsworth House, home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire.

As it was after 4 pm, we did not tour the house and instead walked the grounds, which, barring a modest parking fee, are free to roam.

Chatsworth House completed our Austen-filled day as it played a major role in the 2005 adaptation of Pride & Prejudice. The grounds surrounding the house provide a civilized backdrop to contrast with the rugged Peak District. Handsome architecture and landscaping contributed to the film-like experience.

As we hopped on the A619 towards Bakewell, we drove past an attraction that I had not heard of, but quickly realized I wanted to see it. Haddon Hall is a former medieval manor home with additions dating from the Tudor era and has been featured in such films as The Princess Bride, Elizabeth, Pride & Prejudice and Jane Eyre. The proverbial Bronte/Austen jackpot!

As it was after 5 pm, we were not able to stop in, however, after asking around, have come to the conclusion that this spot offers a more intimate experience in contrast to Chatsworth’s formal demeanor.

We continued into Bakewell, home of the famed pudding. I must admit, I confused Bakewell pudding with Bakewell tart but I was soon sorted out.

Bakewell pudding is a pastry layered with jam and topped with an egg and almond paste custard-like filling. Bakewell tart is a shortcrust pastry topped with jam and filled with frangipane (ground almonds). A Cherry Bakewell adds a top layer of almond fondant and a glace cherry. While Bakewell pudding originated in the market town of Bakewell, the origins of the tart are less certain, but rest assured, it’s not Mr. Kipling.

While there are several shops claiming to be the ‘original’, we popped into the shop on the main road.

Perry could not wait and consumed his pudding while walking the promenade along the River Wye. I waited until we got home, but both of us agreed- they were delicious!

As our day of adventure drew to a close, we drove out of the Peak District along the A6 through Matlock and then onto Derby before heading east towards Peterborough.

Overall, we were very pleased with our day’s journey, the territory covered and sights seen. In retrospect, I would suggest making the trip in reverse.

• Start in Bakewell and pick up a famous pudding. Hint: don’t call it a tart and you will score points with the locals.

• Tour Chatsworth House or Haddon Hall, depending on your preference.

• Head to Hathersage and lunch at Coleman’s Deli.

• Grab a coffee ‘to-go’ and walk Stanage Edge.

• Drive on to Glossop over Snake Pass, soaking in the views.

• From Glossop, travel northeast over the peaks to Holmfirth.

• Have dinner and spend the night at the Old Bridge Hotel in Holmfirth.

Make some magic! xx